Thursday, July 17, 2008

1777

We are in Asia! At the kilometer 1777 is situated the Europe-Asia
Border Obelisk, and we passed it few minutes ago! Actually we were
waiting for something big but we got a tiny stone on the side of the
rail ;-). We are now on a break at Yekaterinburg, ready to sleep (time
difference wit Europe is +4h now). JC

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Small stories on board

People scurry on the platform with their luggages and carriages full
of boxes with shoes, clothes, beauty products and food bought cheaply
in Moscow to be sold in Mongolia or even on the train. Hundred of jars
of russian caviar lay broken on the kay and the small grains are
swimming away in the pouring rain. A Mongolian man is sitting on his
empty carrier disabled by the two square meters of goods collapsed on
the ground, products spread everywhere. The unpacking on train
continues late into the night. People running in the corridor shouting
and storing their belongings into holes in the floor or make small
stores in their cabins. And they take out their goods to sell to local
people on the platform on each stop. Passers-by turn the handle on all
closed doors to check if there is room for new comers. I wonder
assumingly, do they check where there is money to get? But as I
believe people are inherently good, I quickly brush aside this
thought. After a restless night with many stops and bumpy take offs, I
go to buy hot water from the samovar (Russian tea boiler). Five
hundred rubles, one person for five days the Mongolian train hostesse
says. It seems reasonable for it is written chai something in
mongolian two hundred rubles on the sign above the samovar. I pay
thousand rubles for me and JC and return to our cabin happy to have
managed this endeavor in Russian and at the same time secured our
soups for the journey. Two hours later, the Belgian next door tells us
that water is free on board. His mongolian roommate confirms it when I
ask. I go to claim my money back and get it without any sign of shame.
'You have to be aware' JC says in his pepp talk as I return. 'think of
Narine how she checks the prices and bargain. You have to do it for us
to be a winning team', he concludes. I decide it is just a
misunderstanding, after all the hostesse did't speak Russian. Marie






Forced meditation

We just had a piece of sausage and bread for lunch. The two last
hachapury (Georgian cheese bread) Hasmik baked yesterday we had
already finished by nine this morning. It's a bit hard to go from two
plates of pelimini in the morning, two servings of kotletas from
heaven a couple of hours later, topped with cheese bread, cockies and
fruits en masse at night, to our scarse sausage regim. With nothing
but reading to do I feel sleepy all the time and I am slowly residing
into a forced but long awaited meditation. Marie

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

We have left!

That's it, the train has just left, and we are on our way to Ulan
Bator :). Believe it or not, we have 6 of our neighbors who are french
speaking... is that globalization? Our 'room' has 4 beds, but luckily
we have nobody right now, and I think the next stop is tomorrow night,
so we're good! it is incredible what people bring on the train; a huge
amount of stuff, and as it was raining many were dropping their bags,
we saw some guys leaving some russian caviar on the platform ;-). Now
we are about to make our beds, and prepare oursleves for our first
night, more insights soon, ciao. JC

Last moments in Moscow

At Yaroslavsky railway stationstation. We finished our journey in Moscow
the way we began, with a lot of food, some rest, a walk and more food... I
proposed to Narine's mom to come over and open a small restaurant in Stockholm ;-)
Tonight we got a tropical storm with really heavy rains, impressive; it is actually
nice, i'm hoping the temperature will go down now, and that we can
have a pleasant travel. We're sitting at the train station, from here
people go to China, Mongolia, basically on the other side of the
World! The platform of our train just appeared on the screen, we're
on! Ciao, JC


Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Meeting around cards

For the second night in a row, we spent approx 3h around the kitchen
table playing cards (foul again). I badly wanted to win so i teamed up
with Narine's mom, who is a guru of all games it seems (cards,
computers, ...). We had a lot of fun, and of course... we won ;-) (8-5
for the record). Tomorrow is our last day in Moscow, we leave with the
train at 9.30pm, for a short travel of... 4 days! I'm so curious.
Ciao, JC.

Lenin and Pelimini

Lenin made an impression on me. His body laying there in disply with all these people lining up to see him for a short moment, his pale wax-like face, tighly stiched eyes and moth, and the black finger tips on his only open hand. The feeling of mass worship was further enhanced when the guard dutyfully put a finger to his mouth and schushed when we entered. But the whole day I was looking forward to Hasmik's pelimini (home made ravioli, imported by the mongols), which are now lined up on a plate ready to be put in the boiling water. Marie


Lenin

We just did a must, went around Lenin's body in the Mausoleum built to
keep the myth alive... ;-) The body in itself is not very impressive,
but the fact that it is very dark in the room, 16 degrees, with all
these scarry KGB agents makes the whole thing a bit creepy. In the
garden, i found it weird that Stalin and co get to be burried and
celebrated... Actually at the begining Stalin got the same treatment
as Lenin, but they figured it was perhaps not good for he had done
some pretty nasty things, so they just decided to burry him. On
another note, we saw the change of the guards (in memory of the second
world war), was funny to see them doing this march (with their feet
going super high). Now it is tea time (i am having so much tea here it
is crazy!), see ya. JC

Monday, July 14, 2008

Armenien-russian breakfast

Narine, Hasmik and Sasha are ..scurring aound the kitchen putting
kefir, tvorog (cotted cheese - although it really is different Naine
says) and kalbas (sausage) on the table. Valka (Narines baby sister
Valentina) is having a lavash roll - sausage in a Armenien breab.











Hasmik making pelimini after she has served me and Sasha one ton of weets and choclate, which is of course a must with coffee. Valka is having her morning tea.

Playing cards

Playing a foul during four hours with a fan and hot tee to cool down.

Marie

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Moscow day 1

Today we went to the Red Square, and walked around in many of the
parks/gardens around that district. Very impressive architecture. We
had an ice cream in this super modern shopping center (all the armani,
kenzo and co are there), and went inside this exclusive kind of NK at
the power 10. i don't know if it is the heat or the stress of a year
of wok, but i feel dead, especially now that we had lunch, Narin's mum
cooks very well but also in huge quantities... ;-) I find my dad in
her wanting her guests to be happy by eating well. Now it is siesta,
ciao.

JC












Chaning guards outside Kreml. The officer is whiping off the guards face,
who cannot move one inch during his hour shift.

Sunday, July 13, 2008

We're in!

Just took the 'express train' from Domodedovo (express=does not stop
at all stations ;-) ) had a pirogue and are now in a taxi (schumacher
is driving, reminds me of cuba and italy mixed together...) on our way
home. it's so hot here (30 degrees)! The city has an interesting vibe,
modernism, history and clearly some rest from the communist times are
blended together. we're there! ciao


JC

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Happiness and fear

I cannot help shed a couple of tears of happiness and fear when the
plane takes off in wienna. I'm partly going to my country of origin.
I've been to all former soviet repuplics exept Georgia. but I have
never been to Russia. Maybe my ambivalence towards Russia has to do
with that my fathers jewish family fled the country right after the
Molotov-R. pact. I always knew I would love the people. Once you get
close you become like family and together you stand aginst the rest of
the world. For a long time I Found this caring suffacating, beacause
this come with the unspoken accord that 'if I do this for you, I'll
expect it from you, when ever'. And you get to help that persons whole
family too. This is an infringement upon my independence. I had to
learn the hard way how to be close and at the same pull away to be
able to hear my intuition. To keep the balance between being part of
and not getting too entangled.

Marie

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Point of no return

This is it, we are in Wienna, waiting for our flight to moscow, and
just realized this is our point of no return, the next tickets we have
are from Beijing... scarry! Nästa Moscow! Ciao,


JC

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Saturday, July 12, 2008

Water and soups

Last night at a fabulous Kyrgyz dinner party one man was kind enough
to enlighten me that in second class on the Trans-Siberian railway
there are no water facilities. Not that I mind that much not being
able to take a shower during four whole days, but it feels nice to
have time to prepare myself for it. In any case it will most certainly
be eventful and open up for many interesting experiences. I'm glad
though that I have bought a lot of soups for the journey on the train.
I have already been warned by three Russians that the food on board is
poor and you easily get sick (!). I ask myself if there is really any
truth to it...today there are so many tourists taking the train, and
you rarely hear people get sick of the food...
I'm a bit scared, so many things are out of my control. I remember the
shock I got when I landed in Kyrgyzstan and went to my apartment. I
think I know that I'm prepared, but I know somehow that it's gonna be
completely different. I love to become aware of my prejudices through
shock.

Sov gott
Marie

We are really going!

D day minus 1, crazy to imagine that tomorrow is the first day of this
journey, I still can not realize that I will be in Moscow tomorrow
night... Everything seems to be settled (visas, hotels, etc.), and my
last action point is to pack. I have been wondering what books to
bring for quite a while, I think I will go for the following strategy:
an heavy one, namely "An inquiry into the nature and causes of the
wealth of nations" by Adam Smith and few lighter ones as Marina
Lewycka's "Two caravans" or "Dans le café de la jeunesse perdue" by
Patrick Modiano. So many things to think about, better get started!!
;-) See ya!

JC

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

This is what we will do

We will send posts to this blog through email during our trip from
Moscow to Beijing. Departure is July 13, so be posted!

JC and Marie